Sat we arrived late, very late. After picking up our car we noticed it had NO petrol. We had over an hours drive ahead. It was a bit stressful as we couldn't find a petrol station open, since it was so late.. I was not looking forward to calling our land lady and asking for ride. Fortunately, I didn't have to do that, but it was close. Our gite was an old stone barn conversion with a pool and summer kitchen. We had a roomy bedroom, living area with TV with BBC, ITV, and C4. With Wimbledon going on in London, I was very thankful for this! There was a well equipped kitchen with everything you would need to cook simple meals. Fresh flowers and a bottle of local wine were very much appreciated.
We had a boulangerie a short walk away and I made daily trips for pan chocolate, croissants, and baguette. When in Rome...
On Sunday we took a short visit to Isle sur de Sorgue, and went to our first of many markets. Fruits and vegetable, sausages, cheese, and lots of antiques, clothes linens straw bags, some real bargains! There were pretty canals or streams that ran through town making for a very picturesque visit. My camera was going to get a workout on this trip.
Lunch was had in a cafe recommended by our landlady, eggplant tart and quiche Lorraine and piche (carafe) of rosé.
Dinner at the appropriately named, Cafe de Vignes, set amount the vineyards. Speciality was au feu bois, meat grilled over wood fire. I had the magret du canard, and Andrew had the Cassoulet.
Mont Ventoux
The ride starts in the little town of Bedoin. The bike rental shop was conveniently located nearby and was a beehive of activity. Loads of bike riders are making the 22k ride to the top. Andrew was fitted with bike in just a few short minutes he was on his way up. The first several kilometers are a gentle incline but soon it turns into a 8-10% grade through pine trees. About 6 k from the top you break out of the trees and are in the barren white rock. The summit looks like the moon with white rock and craters. At 2k from summit there is the Tom Simpson memorial. He was a UK cyclist who died of a heart attack while competing in the 1967 Tour de France.
The accent took Andrew 2hours 30 min, the decent, 30 minutes. He had a go pro (mini video camera) attached to the handlebars that filmed the ride. It is quite scary, being not for the faint of heart.
While Andrew was climbing the biggest mountain ever, I was perusing the market, eating ice cream! We met up afterwards and had lunch, drove up to the summit for some photos, then home to soak in the pool. Dinner was simple wine, cheese, bread, olives by the pool that I picked up at the market.
Another notch in this cyclist's belt.
Tuesday Fontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes, Roussillon, abbaye senanque, truffle hunting
Part of the appeal of this area was its natural beauty, The hills, vineyards, olive groves, the lavender and sunflowers. We were thrilled that so many of these --- up to our imagining. Tuesday we took the opportunity to drive from town to town soaking it all up. Our first stop was Fontaine de Vaucluse, where a river literally bubbles right out of the ground. We followed the path and climbed over the fence (everyone was doing it!) right down to the blue pool and saw this amazing natural magic. The river then winds through the town providing energy for the local papermill still used by artisan paper makers.
Hill village, Gordes
We could see up in the distance, a hill village so large it's buildings were seen miles away. We had to get closer and as we approached there were areas for pulling off the road to get a good look. Shear rock mingled with primitive cottages still inhabited. There was a church on the very top of the hill. The cherry on top! We drove through and were surprised by the busy streets, with shops, hotels and cafés.
Then we made our way up over a mountain to the Abbaye Senanque, where monks grow lavender, and grapes. This is a remote abbey that has become famous for the amazing products they produce with lavendar and grapes. Tourist flock to this spot to photograph the lavender in the shadow of the majestic Abbey.
Up and over again to Rousillon to see the ochre hills and rock formations for which the town is famous. 17 colors are found in the quarry some of which are ground to a fine powder and used to make paints. The homes in this area are all shades of ochre. Very French. Camera still working!
Needing a drink, a tabac shop along the way was the easiest opportunity. How odd to see Albert Camus books along side tabloid type mags! It turns out he grew up in this small village, and is the local celeb. Loumarin is the town.
We had an appointment with a couple of cute pups at 6pm so after a late lunch we made our way to Cadenet for a truffle seeking adventure.
Lisa and Johann met us at their organic farm and introduced us to the pups and their owner Jean-Marc who trains the dogs to hunt truffles.
Johann and Lisa met in Chicago, where they both worked. Johann inherited the farm domaine from his grandparents. It's a big leap from Chicago to rural provence but they both seem to enjoy it. Johann is in the process of becoming a full time farmer also running a agritourism --- They fell into the truffle business by accident when Johann's childhood friend Jean-Marc and the dogs came to visit and dug up some truffles.
We got to watch the dogs hunt as Johann explained how truffles grow and where to find them. After truffles were found Joahnn took us on a tour of the farm, entertaining us with stories of rural provence and the workings of the farm. His grandfather came from Paris and farmed the land growing grapes and olive trees. Johann has planted more olive trees, apricot trees, truffle oak trees. They have a kitchen garden and a beautiful summer kitchen by the pool where we sampled the various truffle inspired appetizers and drank champagne. A very pleasant evening, indeed.
Wednesday Avignon palais de pape, Pont du Avignon, pool, dinner in vaison de cafe
In The late 1300s an Interesting rivalry between French and Italian Catholics resulting in the election of a French pope and the move of the papal palace from Rome to Avignon. It remained the center of the Catholic Church for 100 years. At one point there was both an Italian pope and a French pope. We spent several hours touring the palais. French popes like Innocence, Clement, but were not beatific popes like John Paul II or Pope Francis. They built lavish additions to the palais and were ruthless in their desire to hold onto power. We saw the treasury, where money hidden under floors during medieval times was recovered in 1985 during a palais restoration. Some mosaics and frescos still remain. In July and August Avignon is host to a large music festival and concerts are held in the main hall.
We walked out on to Pont du Avignon made famous in the children's song.
There is also a beautiful church ---- and garden on the top of the hill which gave welcome respite from the hectic city and beautiful panoramic views of the Rhône river.
Thursday orange, roman amphitheater, museum lunch, chateaneuf du pape, wine tastings, dinner at Le Fleur Bleue in Cresenet
More historical sites were on the schedule to Thursday. We drove up to Orange to see the 2000 amphitheater. It is still used for opera productions in the summer. That must be an amazing venue. We saw films of recent operas and Aida was particularly effective as you can imagine. No expense is spared on costumes and sets and the talent is top notch. It would be something to see.
We also saw films of rock concerts held in the 70s with a young Elvis Costello. A nearby museum houses ruins from the amphitheater, some very well preserved mosaics are included. It also has a display about the fabric industry in Provence with paintings depicting the linen work houses the fabric designers, looms and shops. On display were documents telling of the indienne fabrics that were imported by the East India Company in the 18th century. This was small museum but worth a visit.
Orange has a bustling shopping area with some lovely shops. I had an amazing artisanal ice cream that was pretty much the most delicious ice cream I've ever had.
Lovely church in a quiet square.
Best Meal of the Trip award goes to Le Fleur Bleu. A friendly Dutch couple run this rustic farmhouse restaurant. The tables are beautifully set under a kiwi vine with vintage silver and flea market finds in shades of blue. The food is simple but amazing. Andrew had braised lapin (rabbit) and a cheese soufflé and I had dorado (fish) with a light curry sauce and braised fresh fennel, cauliflower and broccoli. Add fresh baguette, local wines and you get a very memorable meal.
Marseille was a real surprise and we wish we had allowed more time there.
